Buenos Aires

Five stops well worth making in Buenos Aires

Jorge Mario Bergoglio was plucked from his post as Archbishop of Buenos Aires, transported to Vatican City and installed as Pope Francisco, the first Pope to hail from Latin America, one of the most devout regions in the world. The appointment drew international attention to Argentina and its capital city, with people from the faithful to the non-denominational-but-curious wanting to know more about this great Pope’s hometown. The city where Bergoglio was born and raised, and where he served, is home to spectacular religious sites that are worth touring no matter your religious affiliation. Whether for an afternoon of stunning architecture or for a self-guided and spiritual tour of the Pope’s hometown, here are five stops well worth making.

Recoleta Cemetery

The final resting place for Argentina’s elite and eminent like Eva Perón and past presidents, this urban cemetery is one of Buenos Aires’ top tourist sites, and with good reason. Mausoleums chiseled from granite and marble, each seemingly more ornate than the last, line the walkways. Within the cemetery walls are more than 6,400 tombs and mausoleums, and 70 are designated historic monuments. Though it is one of Buenos Aires’ and Argentina’s most iconic religious sights, the Catholic Church technically revoked its blessing from the cemetery when one former president ordered a suicide be interred on the grounds in 1863.

Metropolitan Cathedral

On one side of Buenos Aires’ most politically significant plaza, Plaza de Mayo, is the 19th-century Metropolitan Cathedral, recognizable for its off-white neoclassical façade. It was here in Argentina’s central Catholic house of worship that Bergoglio held Mass as Archbishop. The church has been rebuilt several times since it was first erected in the 16th century, and the present-day building represents a mix of architectural styles. Within a marble mausoleum in the cathedral, cast in the glow of an eternal flame, are the remains of Argentina’s liberator General José de San Martín.

Cathedral of La Plata

Just outside Buenos Aires city limits in La Plata, the capital of Buenos Aires Province, is the impressive Cathedral of La Plata dedicated to the Immaculate Conception, one of the largest churches in Latin America with décor that rivals many of Europe’s grandest cathedrals. The neo-Gothic cathedral was laid in pink brick and sits smack in the geographical center of La Plata, making it pretty difficult to miss. Visitors can visit the onsite museum, as well as ascend the towers for panoramic views over La Plata. The western tower houses 25 bronze bells that ring out to signal the hour.

Tierra Santa

It might not be an elaborate cemetery or cathedral steeped in history, but Tierra Santa is likely the most promising religious sight in Buenos Aires to hold kids’ attention. The holy diversion complex is one of the world’s first religious theme parks and was designed to resemble Jerusalem some 2.000 years ago, down to the period garb that park staffers wear. The park’s main attraction is the Resurrection, for which a larger-than-life Jesus rises to much fanfare from the mock mountain to about once an hour.

La Chacarita Cemetery

Recoleta Cemetery ranks higher on the tourist must-see list, but the sprawling Chacarita Cemetery, the largest cemetery in Argentina, is quite a sight. The columned, neoclassical entryway opens onto to row after row of vaults covering such an expanse that numbered (though unpaved) streets are needed. While these grounds were developed more for accommodating the everyman than the upper crust—it was developed to entomb yellow fever victims barred from Recoleta—many of Argentina’s most beloved artists and cultural figures are buried here, including tango legends Carlos Gardel (whose tomb has become a makeshift shrine), Osvaldo Pugliese, and Aníbal Troilo.

Where to stay

Home Hotel is that rare combination: the design couldn’t be cooler but the staff couldn’t be warmer, putting it in a different league from all Palermo’s other boutique hotels. The idea was conceived by Argentine-English couple Patricia and Tom, frustrated by the lack of stylish Palermo lodgings for guests flying into Buenos Aires for their wedding. The result? The home away from the home that you’ve always wished you had, created with panache and love. The 18 spacious rooms and suites, originally an old factory, are filled with natural light and decorated in bold uplifting colours, with deliciously sumptuous beds and slick bathrooms. For those who want to live like kings for longer, Home Hotel has also 2 lofts, thoroughly equipped and airy apartments with abundant wow factor. The design throughout mixes contemporary minimalism with lovely classic furniture, fresh flowers and vintage wallpaper. Step through reception and you’ll find a fragrant garden with a pool, as well as a long and sleek resto-bar where inventive cocktails are served by candlelight and the soundtrack blends Billie Holiday classics with haunting tango. There’s even a Spa in the basement offering Ayurvedic massages. It’s a very easy place to call home.

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